Yamaha 200 Hp Outboard Bendix Gear Enfagesbut Does Not Turn Over Enginr UPDATED

Yamaha 200 Hp Outboard Bendix Gear Enfagesbut Does Not Turn Over Enginr

After a good run, you shut downwardly the engine for the twenty-four hour period and settle into a nice anchorage. The following morning, cup of java in hand, yous press the showtime push button and the engine won't offset.

If I were the unlucky skipper, I'd repeat the procedure. Assuming no imminent danger, I am better off if it still won't start, because if information technology does eventually showtime, I'k likely facing an intermittent problem, one that will be far more than hard to solve with an engine that does showtime. The situation can exist divided into two basic scenarios: The engine will non crank at all, or it cranks, only will not get-go.

Engine Will Not Crank

Before doing whatever troubleshooting, cheque the shift lever position. Many boats take a safety mechanism to forbid starting the engine while in gear. Move the lever in and out of gear a few times and endeavor again. If the engine yet doesn't commencement, the neutral prophylactic may have failed, and it might be necessary to temporarily bypass this switch to get the engine started.

Assuming that the shift lever was not the problem, start the troubleshooting with the start battery, battery switch, and ignition circuit breaker. First bank check the voltage of the battery, either at the chief panel or with a multimeter at the battery posts. You might be able to eliminate a host of possible causes by checking for voltage at the starter solenoid. The solenoid has ii larger terminals (see "Milk shake Easily With Solenoids," October 2014). The wire from the battery connects to one terminal, and the other terminal sends current to the starter. While your partner tries to start the engine, test for voltage on the terminal connected to the starter with the positive meter probe on this terminal and the negative probe on the engine block (make sure you have a good connection—preferably discover an unpainted bolt or scratch through the paint). The voltage will fall into 1 of the three following categories.

If the voltage reads "0" the trouble is somewhere betwixt the battery and the solenoid, including the ignition switch circuit and the solenoid itself. Check voltage at the battery posts and if you find good voltage there the problem lies between the battery switch and the beginning solenoid or in the solenoid. Make sure the battery switch and the ignition circuit breaker are in the on position. If yeah, then refer to Milkshake Hands With Solenoids column to troubleshoot and practise a work-around.

If the voltage reads between 0 and most 8 volts, the problem is either the battery or the starter itself. Check voltage at the showtime battery (while cranking). If it'due south between 0 and 8 volts, y'all have a battery problem. Start the engine from an alternating battery, or start the generator and brand sure the charger is working. Some boats have a parallel switch for engine starting. If you have the option to select an alternate bombardment, that is a better approach than using the parallel switch. Here'due south why: If the start battery has a bad cell, when yous parallel with a good bombardment you weaken the good for you bombardment. Parallel switches work well when you have a salubrious battery that is low, just not when the battery has a severe problem. Boaters frequently underestimate the condition of a battery based on the voltage. Keep in mind that at 12 volts a battery has about fifty percent of its chapters remaining, and at 11.5 volts only virtually 10 percent remains.

If the battery has proficient voltage (12 volts or more than) the trouble likely will be at the starter. Examine all wiring connections, especially at the starter. If you find rust or corrosion, turn off the battery switch and remove and clean the terminals. If the terminals wait good, attempt borer the starter with a phenolic hammer or the wooden terminate of a metallic hammer while cranking.

This practice should only be attempted on older Bendix type starters. On the newer planetary gear starter motors borer might damage the internal magnets and therefore should be avoided.

If it reads more than nigh eight and less than near 10, it is likely that the starter or the engine has seized or you accept excessive resistance in the starting excursion from poor connections, or resistance inside the solenoid. Meet in a higher place for steps to try related to the starter. If the engine is seized, you either take an internal failure (game over), or the engine has i or more than cylinders filled with h2o, known every bit a hydro-lock. The pistons and cylinders compress air to generate estrus, simply water cannot be compressed and the piston stops one time information technology comes up against the liquid, preventing the engine from turning over (and sometimes bending connecting rods in the process).

Water can work its way into the cylinders several ways. With the engine close downwardly, wave activity can force water into the exhaust discharge and upward the hose until it fills the muffler. Once that happens the hose will brainstorm to fill and the water level will kickoff to rise on the exhaust hose leading from the engine to the muffler. In some configurations it is possible for the water to rise high enough to spill into the exhaust elbow and from there into the cylinder through an open exhaust valve. On some engine installations water can siphon from the seawater supply, filling the muffler from the contrary side of the frazzle discharge, with the aforementioned outcome. Finally, water can fill up a cylinder from over-cranking a not-starting engine. Every time y'all crank the starter the engine'south raw-h2o pump turns and pumps h2o into the cooling circuit, which somewhen falls into the muffler. When the engine starts, exhaust gas forces the backlog h2o out of the muffler. Simply if the engine falls to start, the water can fill the muffler, eventually filling the exhaust every bit described before. That's why Nigel Calder says, "If the engine doesn't start, finish cranking and start thinking!"

Depending upon your engine and your mechanical skills, you might be able to overcome a hydro-locked engine, merely for most of us it's time to call a professional.

Engine Cranks, But Will Not Start

Let'south presume that the engine cranks with its usual vigor, but volition not start. Use caution when cranking your engine, because prolonged attempts or too many of them tin lead to bug. Each attempt should last no longer than 5 to 10 seconds, and intermission near xv seconds between attempts. Every time you crank, a tremendous amount of current flows into the first circuit, and excessive cranking will create high temperatures that can damage components. As for the number of attempts, you want to avoid hydro-locking the engines as discussed earlier.

No rule of thumb determines the safe threshold, due to the variety of configurations. If the engine has not started afterwards several attempts, you can close the raw-water intake seacock, simply yous must be prepared to open it immediately if the engine starts, otherwise you may ruin the impeller.

Diesel engines used to need three things to run: air, fuel, and compression. At present a fourth element has been added: a properly working engine computer or ECU.

If your engine ran yesterday, chances are that air is not a trouble (chock-full filter, blocked exhaust). If it has been running well (not smoking, starting reliably), then compression will not be a likely suspect. That leaves us with fuel and (on newer engines) the computer.

Fuel problems might be uncomplicated. Mayhap you changed a filter and left a supply valve closed, pinched an O-ring, or inadvertently bumped against a valve handle and cut off the supply. Inspect valve positions at the tanks and filters first. Look at the fuel level within the chief filters to see if they are total. A clogged primary or secondary fuel filter falls depression on the list of possibilities. This condition usually occurs gradually, and on the previous day's run high vacuum pressure would have been noted on the primary filter. A chock-full main or secondary filter would eventually limit engine rpm during the run, not suddenly overnight. If you recently changed the fuel filter, it is possible you introduced air into the system. On older engines the air can preclude the engine from starting, but on well-nigh engines the cranking procedure will force the air out. If these areas bank check out okay, it's time to take a look at the engine.

Virtually marine diesels use a solenoid to shut down the engine. They ordinarily remain open, allowing fuel to flow. When you printing the STOP push button, electric current flows to the solenoid, closing the valve and cutting off the supply of fuel (in some cases, the current holds the valve open while the engine runs). These valves tin can neglect and when that happens, no fuel tin flow.

If you are familiar with this solenoid on your engine, you can often visually confirm that it functions properly. Your engine transmission likely shows the location and part of this solenoid.

You lot tin can quickly rule out fuel issues by checking the return line. Remove the return line at the tank and agree the end over a cup while someone cranks the engine. If fuel is coming through, and so the engine is getting enough fuel to run.

Starting Fluids

Given our assumption that the engine has been starting hands and running well, issues related to compression and air supply would be longshots. Using starting fluid on a diesel engine should be avoided. You might void the warranty or damage the engine. If your engine has glow plugs, ether-based fluids can ignite and crusade damage. Ether combusts at a lower temperature than diesel, and that ways it will ignite earlier the piston reaches the end of the compression stroke, throwing off the timing of the combustion cycle. Additionally, the starting fluid washes the oil off of the cylinder walls, leaving them dry during beginning-up, which accelerates wear.

If all else has failed and you lot must become the engine running, y'all can try spraying a small-scale amount of WD40 into the air intake. WD40 contains enough lubricant to protect the cylinder walls and is less volatile than ether. Silicon spray lubricant works well in this application as well. Retrieve however, that an engine nether warranty might be jeopardized. Employ of any aerosol equally a starting fluid should exist a last resort. If the engine starts briefly so quickly dies, you lot probably have a fuel delivery problem.

The ECU

On newer engines (the year varies with horsepower range and manufacturer), a small computer (or ECU) controls its operation. A failed ECU—or a failed connector leading to the ECU—tin prevent an engine from starting. In some cases the digital instrument panel at the helm gives you admission to error codes. If y'all are lucky, the code reference can be establish in the engine manual. In many cases the error code numbers are generic and can be found online. If the ECU has failed, you lot volition only demand one tool—your cellphone—and the number of the local tow company.

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Yamaha 200 Hp Outboard Bendix Gear Enfagesbut Does Not Turn Over Enginr UPDATED

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